In this blog post, we will go over 10 common mistakes home gardeners make when preparing their garden for the winter. Keep reading for the ½ mistake at the end!
Over or Underwatering
During the fall season, shrubs, perennials and trees are busy establishing their root systems. Warm days and cooler nights with adequate moisture provide the ideal environment- a time to grow and anchor into the earth. Watering trees, shrubs and perennials up until the ground freezes is crucial during this time. Without enough water, they won't be able to continue to establish. With that being said, overwatering is a possibility and it can lead to an environment that fosters root rot organisms. A general rule of thumb is about 1 inch of water per week until the ground freezes. Pay close attention to conifers and evergreens such as Yews, Junipers, Cedars (Arborvitae), Boxwood, and Rhododendrons to name a few. These trees and shrubs do not go into as deep of a dormancy as deciduous trees and shrubs. Because they do not lose their leaves, they need more water in the fall to prevent desiccation and winter burn.
Neglecting to remove diseased and infested plant debris
Leaving plant material that is diseased or infested with insects is almost a guarantee for problems next season. It is a good practice to remove all dead annual plant material, leaving behind perennial plant material such as stems and leaf litter- as long as it is pest and disease free. An example of a perennial that would need to be removed and cut back would be Peonies. They are susceptible to foliar disease and should to be cut back to around 4 to 5 inches. Make sure that leaves are removed from the area and disposed of.
Leaving behind stems and leaves of pest and disease free perennials is a good way to provide homes for beneficial insects such as pollinators. Leaf litter can also be a way to incorporate a "natural" mulch into the garden, protecting below ground parts and enriching the soil with organic matter. (We will discuss mulch and amendments later).
Improper Pruning
Pruning is a necessary and beneficial way of maintaining the overall health of trees and shrubs, for safety of people, and for overall aesthetics. Oftentimes, people get into the rhythm of fall cleanup and chop away at their trees and shrubs. Here are some reasons to not prune in the fall:
-Fall pruning encourages new growth during a time that is not ideal, as new growth cannot harden off fast enough.
-Trees and shrubs are slowing down at this time, sending energy down to the roots. Pruning inhibits this important process.
-Wounds created during fall pruning heal slower vs wounds in dormant season essentially "waiting" to heal. Dormant season pruning wounds are preserved until spring when the plant can give energy to the wound site.
During the dormant season, there is less moisture, thus less of an opportunity for disease to flourish.
When you prune during the dormant season, this allows for the plant to send energy to desired growth points in the springtime. The warmer temps promote faster wound healing because of the active growth hormones.
Forgetting that fall is a great time to lay down mulch
Mulch has many benefits for trees, shrubs and perennials. Mulch provides much needed protection for roots, It is an insulator and retains needed moisture. It also reduces weeds and can add to the health of soil. One other benefit in fall mulching is aiding in weed management.
Make sure that you are applying mulch around mid November and laying down enough- around 3 to 5 inches deep. Do not mulch around Peonies (harbors fungal disease) and Bearded Iris (can contribute to the rotting of their rhizomes).
Not taking the time to remove perennial weeds
Fall is an excellent time to control perennial weeds (Creeping Charlie, Dandelion, White Clover, Thistles and others). Mulching is a big help, however, and there are other things you can do as well. Because weeds are so easy to spot now, mechanical methods such as hand pulling and raking will do just fine. Systemic chemical control options will work wonders if you are comfortable using them because they move to the roots. Overall, they will be more successful in eliminating weeds in a more thorough way.
Not protecting sensitive plants and new trees- preventing rodent browsing damage, disorders like frost crack and sunscald
There are two main reasons to protect trees and shrubs during the winter time, the first is to protect animal browsing and secondly, for winter damage due to the elements. Animal damage due to browsing can be prevented by creating hardware cloth or chicken-wire cylinders around new and/or sensitive trees and shrubs. Make sure when creating these cylinders you keep in mind the expected snow line. Bury the bottom of the cylinder 2 to 3 inches into the ground to prohibit rabbits and other rodents from tunneling underneath. Animal repellent sprays may work but will need to be reapplied and if used should be used in conjunction with the wire cylinder method.
As for winter damage from the elements, we are talking primarily about Sunscald. This is a disorder that is caused by over exposure to sunlight, when the cells in bark rapidly heat up and die. Certain trees are susceptible to Sunscald: thin barked trees and young trees such as Cherry, Crabapple, Honeylocust, Linden, Maple, Mountain Ash and Plum. Sunscald usually occurs on the South to Southwest side of the tree. You can prevent by using white tree wrap or a white plastic tree guard. Protect newly planted trees for at least two winters and thin barked species for 5 winters or more.
Ignoring the time to ensure proper soil health- adding compost etc.
Now is the time to cover your garden beds with soil amendments! This is the opportune time because over winter, the amendments will have ample time to break down in time for spring.
You can start off simply by using tree leaves as mulch. If you want to go a step further, add compost or manure.
Make sure that you are not tilling, as this can disrupt the soil structure amongst other things such as erosion.
Leave the mulch as this also breaks down over time and only does good things for the soil!
Not cleaning out containers- namely ceramic ones
It is a simple task that is often overlooked but is truly important.
All containers ideally should be cleaned out and sanitized as certain diseases can hang on to plant roots, soil and debris. It is a good practice to have everything cleaned out prior to planting for the spring.
Plastic pots can be stored outside as well as concrete pots, but glazed ceramic and terra cotta pots need to be treated differently. Glazed ceramic pots can be turned upside down, making sure that they will not sit in standing water. Terra cotta pots need to come inside for the winter. A garage or shed works fine as long as they stay dry.
Not disconnecting hoses
An attached garden hose will cause problems- indoor and outdoor. Ensure that your hoses are drained well. Coil into a 3 foot diameter- no tighter, and store in a garage or indoors.
Prepare small fruits for winter
Small fruits need some extra attention! Strawberries, as their name suggests should be protected with a layer of weed free mulch, straw or salt marsh hay. It is important to add after the ground freezes, and taking care to remove it around April when new leaves emerge.
For red and yellow summer bearing raspberries, spent canes can be pruned in the summer or fall. Do not mow to the ground. For fall bearing (everbearing) red and yellow raspberries, they can be cut down to the ground in late fall or early spring. Blackberries can also be cut down to the ground and the canes should be covered with mulch.
For grapes, it is of utmost importance to remove any fruit that is left and remove any fruit on the ground. Light pruning is okay but not hard pruning. Mulch is not needed.
Extra tidbit- ½ Mistake- Not using this slow time to take care of your tools
Take the time now, while the season is slowing down to take care of your tools. Clean them, sharpen them, oil and store them properly now. You will be one step ahead next season!
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